Style Icon: Perri Gottlieb
Perri Gottlieb talks to us about what it’s like being a gemologist who loves plastic, sharing jewelry with family, and what the jewelry trends are now in Paris and Tel Aviv.
Necklace: Fred Leighton, Earrings: gift, Ring (Right Hand): Gold initial ring from her great-grandmother, Ring, (Left Hand): amethyst and silver filigree ring from her grandmother.
After completing a Graduate Gemology course at The Gemological Institute of America, Perri Gottlieb began her career working for the elite jeweler Fred Leighton. Since then, she’s had a long history as an ambassador for brands like H. Stern and Temple St. Clair for Saks Fifth Avenue. Last year she packed up her Brooklyn apartment and is dividing her time between the streets of Paris and Tel Aviv. I photographed her in Brooklyn just before she left.
Hi Perri! Tell me a bit about yourself – where you live, your work, etc.
Last year I moved out of Brooklyn to live abroad. These days I find myself bouncing between Paris and Tel Aviv. Lucky me though, I have plenty of friends and family in NYC/Brooklyn, and for the moment, I still very much feel like a New Yorker. I am still working for Saks Fifth Avenue but by appointment only.
And about your studies to become a gemologist…
In 2003 I took a chance on a second profession which was always my first love. Jewelry and gems fascinated me from a young age, though I never thought to pursue it as a career. I found myself uninspired by a job in public policy, and spent some time reflecting and searching for something that felt personal, interesting and special. Since I always liked jewelry but I didn't have any education in the field, it seemed like a good idea. Once I decided to enroll in a Graduate Gemology course at The Gemological Institute of America, I wondered why I hadn't thought of it before. The course was six months long, including two months focusing on diamonds and four months studying everything else.
You’ve got this gorgeous Fred Leighton necklace. I know there’s got to be a good story about that piece, let’s hear it!
Fresh out of earning my degree in gemology at the Gemological Institute of America, I walked down Madison Avenue and was stopped in my tracks by the windows of Fred Leighton. Fred Leighton is one of a handful of boutiques catering to the red carpet crowd. At that time, Mr. Leighton, his wife and their daughter ran the business and aside from a few contemporary designs, mostly carried estate and antique pieces. This is red carpet worthy jewelry. Mr. Leighton would purchase pieces from local clients, personal friends and international dealers. He would also reimagine pieces that he purchased. He would cleverly have his jeweler set an estate brooch as a clasp on a stunning strand of contemporary fine turquoise beads or put two pairs of earrings together to create a pair of chandelier earrings with dazzling briolette cut diamonds. A few weeks after this stroll, I began to work in the back offices of Fred Leighton and received an even deeper education. It was here I was introduced to micro-mosaic jewelry, emeralds recently found from the discovery of a shipwreck, art deco styles, art nouveau pieces and plenty of 19th Century antique jewelry. Art history come to life.
Deep in the basement vaults, I found this antique natural dendritic agate slice set in silver with diamonds and sapphires. As I was the one working to inventory the backstock jewelry, I came across it and fell in love. I was never worried it would get sold because no one ever took it upstairs to the sales floor. This slice is a completely natural stone though it looks like a small tree painted on tile. Agate is a tightly packed quartz so it is translucent and the black inclusions are called dendrite.
Mr. Leighton had purchased the piece as part of a lot and because he hadn't figured out what he wanted to do with it just yet, it sat in a tray in the basement for years. The second time, we began our inventory process was close to my birthday. I knew exactly what I was wishing for that year. The piece never had a price associated with it and Mr. Leighton made up an absurdly low price for me. The deal was done. The jeweler removed the brooch attachment and I sourced an antique chain that suits it perfectly.
Necklace: Fred Leighton. Perri purchased it at Fred Leighton when she used to work there. It is an Antique Natural Dendritic Agate Slice set in Silver with diamonds and sapphires, circa 19th century. She removed the original brooch attachment and sourced an antique chain to go with it.
How would you describe your jewelry style?
Personally, I'm a gemologist who loves plastic. In other words, I love to mix high-end with fashion pieces. I'm not afraid to take risks, but even edgy pieces on me tend to read classic and tailored. I'm good with that. I love that my jewelry expresses more of my personality than anything else.
What jewelry do you wear on a regular day?
These days my regular days are pretty different than when I was working with clients every day. But if I were to talk about the past few years, I’d say I have been wearing my great grandmother's insignia ring. It's flat, unassuming and somewhere between a rose and a yellow gold. I wear it whether it "matches" or not. It matches me. It fits on a few different fingers which gives me options. During a trip to Vancouver, I found two bracelets that I also wear almost every day. They are hammered and oxidized (blackened) silver bangles with a few small burnished diamonds. One bangle is slightly smaller than the other. Finding them seemed like a Cinderella story. They were being sold as a set but the smaller one won't fit most wrists. They fit me perfectly. The small one helps keep the bigger one stay on my wrist. I rarely wear them at home because I notice how much noise they make when they hit one another! Sadly, I have forgotten the name of the artist that created them and she didn't stamp them inside.
Earrings - yes. Just yes. Always. Always. They used to be oversized in the 80's, then they were mini, and now it just depends, but they must be comfortable.
On a special occasion?
I have a few statement rings and I always choose one of them. Then I choose the rest of the jewelry.
Necklace: Fred Leighton, Earrings: gift, Ring (Right Hand): Gold initial ring from her great-grandmother, Ring, (Left Hand): amethyst and silver filigree ring from her grandmother.
Do you have a philosophy on how to accessorize? Do you plan the clothes first or the accessories first?
I don't often go out to look for a specific piece of jewelry to wear for a specific outfit or occasion. I guess I am always just scanning and looking at jewelry. When I find something I love, I go for it. Then when the occasion comes along, my little gem is on standby - waiting in my jewelry box for me.
Do you ever shop for jewelry online?
I am a brick and mortar person - all the way. Finding a treasure excites me. I want to feel it in my hands. I want to know how the clasp works, if the jeweler paid attention to the details on the back look as much as they did on the front? Are the prongs smooth or pointy? Does it have the right proportions for me? Jewelry shopping online also leaves me wondering if I have just purchased something everyone else has.
Earrings: Perri’s grandmother’s, Necklace: Lorina Balteanu, Ring: H.Stern Rock Crystal and Gold Ring from the DVF Collection.
How has being a gemologist changed your style when it comes to jewelry?
I think being knowledgeable about stones has made me shy away from synthetics. If something is plastic that seems ok, but buying a piece because it looks like it's a big diamond doesn't really interest me. I'm not trying to fool anyone into thinking I can afford something that I can't. I prefer to use my jewelry as a way to connect with people or to express my style. I don't think this changed after I got my degree but it made me more thoughtful about which pieces I purchase.
Can you tell me about your family’s history with jewelry? Stories about your grandmothers?
When my maternal grandparents travelled, my grandmother would make a point to find herself a little piece of jewelry as a souvenir. Since we lived a few hours away from each other, when I would visit them, we would spend long weekends together. I often just wanted to poke around in my grandmother's closet and jewelry box. She would tell me the stories of where she traveled. She found a cobalt blue enamel and gold chain in Turkey and a carved jade disc in China. At that time, I was more into the jewelry than the far-flung locations but now I appreciate how it was a big deal for them to create a life where travel was even an option.
My paternal grandmother passed away very young. Her name was Pauline and I am named after her. She had this set of earrings and a brooch engraved with the initials of her maiden name PW. I wear the earrings constantly. I treasure these pieces since they are the only jewelry that connects us.
You have this locket that seems different from the rest of your collection. Please tell us about it and why it’s important to you.
I love this necklace. It is obviously well worn and one day it appeared in my jewelry box. That might mean that I stole it after admiring it in my mother's jewelry box. My sister, mom, and I have a very fluid relationship with jewelry so I don't usually feel badly for taking pieces on extended loan. This locket has the cutest picture of my dad when he was a baby and a photo of his dad in his army uniform. My paternal grandfather gifted the locket to my grandmother and put her initials on it. I don't usually do hearts but this one I absolutely cherish. It's a great layering piece also with a long gold chain or another shorter necklace with a charm.
Tell me about jewelry shopping abroad! Have you discovered any new designers in France or Israel that we should know about? Do you find that women wear jewelry differently in Paris or Tel Aviv compared to New York?
In the last year, Robert and I did so much traveling and looking for apartments that I found myself drooling over new kitchens and sofas more than jewelry. However, I did notice that in Paris it seemed like women had their signature pieces. As I met new friends and I spoke of being a gemologist, people wanted to show me the understated heirlooms passed down or their piece they never remove with a unique gemstone. I'm constantly being tested to see if I can name the rock that is set upon someone's finger. I love that. It's a little window into who they are.
This year in Paris, I did spend a day meandering a huge flea market north of Paris called Marche aux Puces. It's basically an entire neighborhood full of streets with antique jewelry, second hand and new clothes, vintage furniture. I did find a pair of short drop earrings assembled by the shopkeeper. They are penny-sized Rose Quartz discs that are carved with the profile of a woman. It was an easy purchase since they were inexpensive and the light blush color still gently popped even with my pale skin.
Many Parisian women are wearing lighter looking pieces while big and chunky has ruled American markets for a while now. Who's to say what people are wearing now that the era of sweatpants is upon us but I think we'll tend to go a little more delicate for the current mood.
And as far as jewelry in Tel Aviv and Israel, the fine jewelry market is so much smaller. Whereas you might find artisanal jewelers and fashion jewelers in abundance, you would be hard pressed to find the free standing high end jewelry boutiques. H.Stern has historically held a significant presence throughout Israel but not many other brands have their own stores.
During the year, I kept up with my Saks clients while learning French, creating space for myself in Paris and Tel Aviv, learning the movements of a new relationship all filling up on plenty of baguettes and hummus. Over the year I came back to New York twice. I also got the opportunity to introduce a French jewelry collection to some friends of mine.
Earrings: Ed Levin c. 1950, Perri converted them from clip-ons to be on a wire hook, Necklace: Pascale Lion, Ring (left hand): Linhardt pebble ring in oxidized silver and scattered diamonds. A few years after purchasing, I asked her to add a few more diamonds. Why not?!, Ring (right hand): from Perri’s great-grandmother.
Thank you, Perri!
