Style Icon: Olga Turka
Stylist and costume designer Olga Turka talks to us about her philosophy on life, why you’ll always find her with a stack of bracelets on her right arm, and where to find the best jewelry shopping on the planet (hint: you might be about to buy a plane ticket).
Stylist Olga Turka is proof that more is more. That you can’t ever have enough of a good thing. That KonMari-ing your closet and especially your jewelry boxes should never happen.
Her style is maximalist to the max. She wears eclectic pieces (spider brooches and insect rings!), her sense of color is phenomenal, and this woman knows how to stack ring after ring, bracelet after bracelet.
I had a blast photographing her in Brooklyn, and am so excited to share her style inspiration with you.
How would you describe your jewelry style?
My jewelry style is certainly eclectic and grandiose. I love statement pieces, truly unique or one-of-a-kind treasures, vintage jewels that have a history to them. I tend to lean towards color, bling and texture. I love shiny things. I love jewels!
What jewelry do you wear on a regular day?
My basic go-to is a stack of bracelets on my right arm. Being Turkish, I’m superstitious by nature, and the bracelets on that arm must all be gifts from friends and family. I couldn’t even tell you where it started; it’s a rather serendipitous practice. To me, it’s as if their positive energy is always with me, and I can look at them for even a split second and that person comes to mind and I feel the love. It’s interesting too, because they somehow go together even when from very different types of people – kind of like life, no?
On a special occasion?
Well, in my world of eccentric glamour, I feel like every day we wake up, we should treat the day as a special occasion! But, I suppose dressing for an actual event calls for statement pieces for certain, and the jewelry helps create a cohesive look and make it extra special. If I wear a bold necklace, I go subtler on rings, earrings and bracelets so that it is the noticeable feature. Or, huge chandelier earrings would call for no necklace. Dainty isn’t my thing - I feel like everything should be loud and unapologetically fun!
Do you have any philosophy in how to accessorize? Do you plan the clothes first or the accessories first?
My philosophy in life is “everyday is an adventure, dress accordingly,” and I truly abide by that, even if I’m doing a rather mundane activity like going food shopping. In terms of accessorizing my motto (which was articulated so well by the Queen Bee of accessorizing, Iris Apfel ) is “more is more and less is a bore.” I’m always attracted to the dimension and texture of things and feel jewelry just adds that extra oomph or exclamation point to the ensemble. With the right mix, you’re donning wearable art. The art of dressing is something I was deeply passionate about from a very young age, and I feel like it’s been lost in a sea of modern day convenience. I understand it isn’t for everyone, but really feel like I associate better with vintage eras where there was considerably more attention to the details and a lot of thoughtfulness and effort in appearances.
I don’t have any set rules or plan when dressing. Sometimes a necklace sets the foundation for the rest, or a suit set I’ve been dying to wear is crying for a set of bangles to pull it all together. And, what makes accessories so great is that you can add and subtract until the equation makes sense.
What are your go-to jewelry brands?
My dream pieces are from Adina Mills, Mars and Valentine, and Pamela Love. Though all different, they all make me feel like the sort of rockstar/sorceress/gypsy I feel like I must have been in a past life (or perhaps still meant to be in this life! Who knows?).
I also live for going to Artists & Fleas in Chelsea Market and Brooklyn Flea or Etsy for pieces from international artisans. The best jewelry shopping on the entire planet is Istanbul, primarily The Grand Bazaar, where you’re buttered up with endless Turkish tea until you make a purchase. The prices are so reasonable and it’s the greatest quality for the most unique pieces.
Stores you shop at? Both online and brick and mortar?
Much of the treasures I have aren’t expensive at all. In fact, I grew up thrifting and finding deals, so I think the thrill of the hunt always stuck with me. I find extraordinary gems at the Indian dollar store by my apartment or a charity shop. I love the hunt in the flea market or in the tiniest thrift store, and I find these far more appealing than anything mass marketed (though H&M and J. Crew do make some nice pieces). Also, I lean toward brick and mortar because I prefer the tangibility, though Etsy has incredible pieces of vintage jewelry.
Most favorite treasure troves for jewelry are Then & Now Antiques in Hawthorne, NJ, The Antiques Arcade in Asbury Park, NJ, Bella Turka in Philadelphia, The Covered Market in Takoma Park, MD and Verameat in NYC. Brooklyn Charm is great for personalized gifts.
Clothing treasure troves: Goodwill (in NJ, not in NYC, they’re oversaturated.), Beacon’s Closet in Brooklyn and Manhattan, Walk the West in Brooklyn (She has the most impeccable eye!), Udelco in Hawthorne, NJ, Vintage Alley in Verona, NJ, and Retrospect Vintage in Philadelphia.
What is the most special piece of jewelry you own and why?
There are a few trinkets that will always have the most magical, sentimental, special place in my heart – the ones that hold the greatest stories. Any of my Mom’s jewelry that my Dad gave her is just a priceless heirloom in my eyes, especially her sapphire and diamond necklace and ring (sapphire is my birthstone). I feel like they aren’t even merely jewelry, but parts of our history.
My Dad recently passed on to the beautiful Hereafter, and I keep looking at this silver, marcasite and onyx spider brooch we purchased during our father/daughter trip to Turkey in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar in 2014 (see below). Spiders are a symbol of good luck and that trip together was the greatest gift of my life, so it really holds so much magic in such a delicate package.
Can you tell me a story about a time when you discovered an amazing piece (either at a store, flea market, your mom’s closet)? Tell me about the hunt.
Nothing really specific comes to mind at the moment, but the feeling of entering an antique shop is like no other. It’s as if you’re opening a door into the most wondrous hodgepodge of people’s stories and you search for the treasures that add to your own story. I always remember where things come from too, perhaps because I feel that if I came across it, it was meant for me.
How does being a stylist give you access to cool brands and pieces?
I think being a stylist allows me to keep a completely open mind in terms of where to access pieces. Sometimes a challenging shoot will have time and budget constraints and you really have to get creative. There are times I’ve had to run into a Target or Walmart hours before the shoot, put pieces together by weaving leather cord to make a really visually interesting piece.
I also have to constantly keep up with what’s new and stay up-to-date with all platforms so that when something is needed on the fly, I know exactly where to go. The brands are easier to keep up with, but to come up with accessories when something is thrown at you last minute is when your creative brain goes into overdrive.
It’s an understatement to say that you’ve mastered a maximalist style. What secrets can you pass along to us mere mortals who are not as talented in stacking and mixing pieces?
Mere mortals, ha!
One of my favorite and most used tips is when buying cheap jewelry, purchase more than one…if you only wear one bracelet, it looks blasé, but if you wear two or four stacked together, it instantly looks more substantial and expensive. My most complemented jewelry is often my cheapest pieces, and many of my friends have incorporated this methodology into their style.
Also, don’t be afraid of mixing patterns, especially if they’re in the same color family. And, try complementary colors. An emerald green dress really gets punched up by jewel tone purple jewels, much more than if you were to keep everything monochromatic. Live colorfully and boldly! :)
And, layering and stacking is a great way to add dimension when things seem a little too boring.
Favorite ways to store your jewelry?
Obviously, all over the place! In a world of Marie Kondo, I love surrounding myself with all the treasures that spark joy in my life. Sometimes I want to ask her “what if everything somehow sparks joy?”
I’ve learned to keep everything out on display and part of my décor. When we stuff things away in drawers, we either forget about them or don’t use them. So I choose display all my fabulosity and it is my preferred way to view all of my treasures in all their splendor. It also helps keep them in mind while getting dressed. As you can see, I put them in bowls or on wine bottles that I’ve shared with friends or hanging on drumsticks I’ve caught at various rock shows. Everything tells a story. Everything is art.
If something breaks, what do you do? Do you have a super special person/store that you can recommend to help with damaged jewels?
If it’s something valuable, I absolutely go to a professional to see if it can be restored while keeping the integrity of the piece. I don’t have a go-to for this.
If they’re cheaper pieces, I keep the salvageable broken pieces to either create a new piece out of them, or my favorite thing to do is take a cheap pair of sunglasses and decorate the hell out of them with all the fragments. Or, connect them together to make a remarkable headpiece or crown to wear like the Queen that you are.
Anything else?
Much of my style influence and inspiration comes from a lifelong obsession with the Golden Girls, Turner Classic Movies and Old Hollywood, rock music, my worldwide travels and especially my mom. She has always loved fashion, is an extraordinarily talented seamstress, has impeccable style and instilled much of her passion to me.
Thank you so much, Olga!